Saturday, April 14, 2007
FISH: A hidden feast
Fish is one of those places that grows on you. My first few times there were okay, and, yes, while the food was good, I didn't understand the undying devotion some people have to this place. The prices seemed high, the atmosphere simple, and, for being on the water, the views aren't that great. But now, this is one of my favorite spots to go. The food, for one thing, is excellent. The restaurant practices sustainable resources, so the shifting menu always is full of in-season goodness. And I think ultimately, that's why people keep coming back to Fish. Their commitment to nothing but the best resources has resulted in nothing but the best food. But here's the trick; what somehow seemed plain before, now seems "local" and the views of the boats, rather than wide open water, lend to the "hidden" feel of the place. And, while the prices are still expensive, it may just be the best deal in town.
Try the crabroll and ask for it with wedges rather than fries. If you go there on a sunny day, be sure to sit outside. Also, they are a fish market, so you can buy your own and cook it at home. But I suggest you let them do the cooking.
350 Harbor Drive. 415-331-FISH. www.331fish.com